Hermès Terminology & Vocabulary: The Collector’s Glossary

The world of Hermes comes with its own rich vocabulary – a language of terms, abbreviations and codes that can bewilder newcomers but that collectors use fluently. Learning this terminology is essential to navigating the Hermes world, understanding discussions, and shopping knowledgeably. This guide provides an overview of essential Hermes terminology and vocabulary, defining the key terms every enthusiast should know.

It is part of our terminology glossary hub and ties together the whole reference.

The language of Hermes

Hermes collecting has developed a distinctive vocabulary encompassing bag names, construction methods, materials, markings, buying terms and abbreviations. This language allows collectors to communicate precisely about bags, and fluency in it is a mark of engagement with the house. For newcomers, learning the terminology can feel like learning a new language, but it quickly becomes second nature and greatly enhances understanding.

Mastering this vocabulary is genuinely valuable, enabling you to follow discussions, understand listings, and shop knowledgeably. It is part of becoming a confident, informed collector, and our guides throughout Hermes Guidance Lounge use and explain these terms to build your fluency, as our start here guide encourages.

Essential terms

The table below defines some of the most essential Hermes terms every enthusiast should know, providing a quick reference to the vocabulary.

TermMeaning
Quota bagBirkin or Kelly, limited per client per year
HSSHorseshoe stamp – a bespoke special order
SellierStructured construction with outside stitching
RetourneSoft construction, stitched inside out
Blind stampInk-free embossed marking (maker, date)
ClochetteSmall leather bell holding the lock keys
Togo / EpsomPopular durable grained leathers

These terms form the foundation of the Hermes vocabulary, covering bags, construction, markings and accessories. Familiarity with them enables you to understand and participate in the world of Hermes collecting confidently.

Bag and model terms

Key bag and model terms include the names of the icons – Birkin, Kelly, Constance – and other models like the Lindy, Bolide, Evelyne, Picotin and Herbag, along with size designations indicated by numbers (such as Birkin 30). Terms like Mini Kelly and Kelly Pochette denote specific variations. Understanding these names and their meanings is fundamental to discussing and choosing bags, as our styles guide details.

Knowing the models and their sizes allows you to navigate the range knowledgeably, understanding what each name refers to and how the bags relate. This vocabulary is the starting point for engaging with the Hermes world.

Construction and material terms

Construction and material terms include Sellier and Retourne for the two construction methods, leather names like Togo, Epsom, Clemence, Swift, Box calf, Chevre and Barenia, and exotic terms like alligator, lizard and ostrich. Hardware terms include palladium, gold and rose gold. Understanding these terms lets you discuss and choose the materials and construction of a bag with precision, as our leathers guide and construction guide explore.

This vocabulary of materials and construction is essential to understanding the character and quality of a bag, forming a key part of the collector’s fluency.

Key takeaway: Hermes has a rich vocabulary of terms – quota bag, HSS, Sellier, Retourne, blind stamp, clochette, leather and hardware names, and more. Learning this language is essential to navigating the Hermes world, understanding discussions, and shopping knowledgeably.
Master the Hermes language

Explore every term and its meaning in our terminology glossary.

Explore the Terminology Glossary →

Buying and market terms

Buying and market terms include quota bag and browsing bag for the distinction in availability, SA for sales associate, pre-spend for the debated notion of purchase history, special order and HSS for bespoke bags, and terms like premium and markup for resale pricing. Understanding these terms helps you navigate the buying experience and the secondary market knowledgeably, as our buying guide and markup guide explore.

Why learn the vocabulary

Learning the Hermes vocabulary is valuable because it enables clear communication, informed shopping and deeper engagement with the house. Fluency in the terminology lets you understand discussions and listings, ask the right questions, and appreciate the nuances of bags. It is part of becoming a confident, knowledgeable collector, enriching your experience of the Hermes world and helping you navigate it with assurance, as our guides throughout the site support.

Accessory and care terms

The Hermes vocabulary extends to accessories and care. Terms like clochette (the leather piece holding the lock keys), Twilly (a narrow silk scarf often tied to handles), and rodoir or spa (referring to Hermes care and restoration services) are part of the language. Understanding these terms helps you engage with the accessories and care that accompany the bags, enriching your ownership experience, as our care guide explores.

These accessory and care terms round out the vocabulary, covering the pieces and services that are part of the wider Hermes world beyond the bags themselves.

Abbreviations collectors use

Collectors use various abbreviations as shorthand, including HSS (horseshoe stamp), SO (special order), SA (sales associate), B and K (Birkin and Kelly), and GHW and PHW (gold and palladium hardware). These abbreviations appear frequently in discussions and listings, so understanding them is essential to following the conversation. Learning this shorthand is a quick way to boost your fluency in collector communication, as our collector guide touches on.

Familiarity with these abbreviations lets you read and participate in collector discussions with ease, decoding the shorthand that enthusiasts use routinely.

Colour and hardware vocabulary

The vocabulary of colour and hardware is extensive, encompassing the poetic colour names like Etoupe, Gold, Rose Sakura and Bleu Nuit, colour codes, and hardware terms like palladium, gold, rose gold and permabrass. Understanding this vocabulary lets you discuss and choose the colours and hardware of a bag precisely, navigating the rich palette and finishes, as our colours guide details.

Building your fluency

Building fluency in Hermes vocabulary comes with exposure and practice, as you encounter and use the terms through guides, discussions and shopping. Over time, the language becomes natural, and you find yourself understanding and using the terminology with ease. This growing fluency deepens your engagement and confidence, making you a more knowledgeable collector, and our comprehensive guides are designed to build this fluency step by step.

A living language

The Hermes vocabulary is a living language that continues to evolve as new bags, colours and trends emerge, and as the collector community develops new shorthand. Staying engaged with the community and reliable guides keeps your vocabulary current, ensuring you remain fluent as the language grows. This evolving nature is part of the richness of the Hermes world, reflecting its ongoing creativity and the passion of its collectors.

Vocabulary and buying confidence

Beyond communication, a strong grasp of the vocabulary translates directly into buying confidence. When you understand exactly what a listing means by Sellier Epsom Kelly 28 with GHW, or can discuss a Retourne Togo Birkin knowledgeably with a sales associate or seller, you shop from a position of understanding rather than uncertainty. This fluency helps you ask the right questions, assess specifications accurately, and avoid misunderstandings, protecting you in both boutique and secondary-market transactions.

In a world where the difference between specifications can significantly affect a bag’s suitability and value, this precise understanding is genuinely empowering, letting you navigate purchases with the assurance of someone who speaks the language fluently.

Using the glossary as a resource

The best way to build and maintain your vocabulary is to treat a comprehensive glossary as an ongoing resource, returning to it whenever you encounter an unfamiliar term. Rather than memorising everything at once, let your fluency grow naturally as you engage with bags and discussions, consulting the glossary to clarify terms as they arise. Kept handy, a reliable glossary becomes an invaluable companion to your collecting journey, steadily expanding your command of the rich language of Hermes.

Frequently asked questions

What is a clochette?

A clochette is the small leather bell-shaped piece that holds the keys to a bag’s lock, a characteristic accessory on bags like the Birkin and Kelly.

What does HSS mean?

HSS stands for horseshoe stamp, denoting a bespoke special order bag marked with the horseshoe symbol and featuring some personalisation.

What is the difference between Sellier and Retourne?

Sellier is a structured construction with outside stitching and crisp edges, while Retourne is a soft construction stitched inside out with rounded edges and a relaxed feel.

Why should I learn Hermes terminology?

It enables clear communication, informed shopping and deeper engagement, letting you understand discussions and listings, ask the right questions, and appreciate the nuances of bags.