Hermes Special Orders – known to collectors by the horseshoe stamp that marks them – represent the pinnacle of personalisation and the deepest level of the client relationship. These bespoke bags, allowing clients to customise elements like leather, colour, hardware and stitching, are offered only to the most established and valued clients, making them among the most coveted acquisitions in the Hermes world. This guide explores how special order allocation works, who qualifies, and what makes these personalised pieces so special.
It is part of our iconic collections hub and connects to our horseshoe stamp guide.
What special orders are
A Hermes Special Order, often abbreviated SO, is a bespoke bag customised to a client’s specifications, going beyond the standard offerings to allow personalisation of elements such as leather type, colour combinations, hardware and stitching. These made-to-order pieces let a client create a bag tailored to their exact taste, resulting in a truly personal and often unique creation. Special orders represent the ultimate expression of the Hermes client experience.
Because they are personalised and made specifically for the client, special orders carry a distinct prestige and intimacy, embodying the deep relationship between the client and the house. They are marked by a special stamp and are highly coveted for their exclusivity and bespoke nature, as our horseshoe stamp guide explores.
The horseshoe stamp
Special order bags are identified by a small horseshoe-shaped stamp, typically placed near the maker’s mark, which signifies that the bag is a bespoke special order rather than a standard production piece. This horseshoe stamp – which gives rise to the collector shorthand HSS, for horseshoe stamp – is a mark of distinction, indicating the personalisation and the elevated client status behind the bag. Collectors prize the horseshoe stamp as a symbol of exclusivity.
The presence of the horseshoe stamp instantly identifies a bag as something special, a personalised creation made for a valued client. It has become a coveted marking in its own right, signalling the bespoke nature and prestige of the piece, and adding to its desirability on the secondary market.
Who qualifies for special orders
Special orders are offered only to established, valued clients with a strong relationship with Hermes, typically those who have demonstrated significant, genuine engagement with the house over time. They are not available to newcomers or on request from just anyone; rather, being offered a special order is a sign that the boutique regards you as a serious, valued client. This exclusivity is central to their prestige.
Reaching the level of being offered special orders requires the kind of deep, authentic relationship-building we discuss throughout our buying guides. It represents a milestone in a client’s journey with Hermes, reflecting trust and standing built over considerable time, as our profile-building guide explains.
How allocation works
The allocation of special orders is at the boutique’s discretion, extended to qualifying clients as opportunities arise, often during specific special-order windows when the house accepts bespoke requests. There is no formal application process; instead, a valued client is invited by their sales associate to place a special order when the opportunity is available. This discretionary, relationship-based allocation keeps special orders exclusive and personal.
Because allocation depends on the client relationship and the timing of special-order availability, patience and a strong boutique connection are essential. Being invited to place a special order is a privilege that reflects one’s standing, and it typically comes to those who have cultivated genuine, lasting relationships.
What can be customised
Special orders allow customisation of various elements, which may include the leather type, colour or colour combinations, hardware finish, stitching colour and interior lining, depending on what is offered. This lets clients create a bag reflecting their personal taste, whether a subtle refinement of a classic or a more distinctive combination. The specific options available can vary, and certain elements remain within Hermes guidelines, but the scope for personalisation is a large part of the appeal.
The ability to craft a bag to one’s exact preferences results in a piece that feels truly personal and unique, deepening the emotional connection between owner and bag. This bespoke element is what makes special orders so treasured, as our colours guide touches on regarding combinations.
Discover special orders and the markings that define them.
The process and wait
Once a special order is placed, the bespoke creation process takes considerable time, often many months, as the bag is made to the client’s specifications by Hermes artisans. This wait is part of the special-order experience, reflecting the care and craftsmanship involved in creating a personalised piece. The anticipation of receiving a bag made just for you adds to the significance and joy of the eventual arrival.
The value of special orders
Special orders carry significant prestige and often strong value, reflecting their bespoke nature and the elevated client status they represent. A well-conceived special order combining desirable, timeless elements can be exceptionally beautiful and covetable, while the horseshoe stamp itself adds cachet. However, because personalisation is subjective, the value of a special order on the secondary market depends heavily on whether its specific combination appeals broadly, as our investment guide notes.
A special order that unites bespoke exclusivity with classic, widely-loved specifications tends to be the most valuable, marrying personal expression with broad appeal. This is worth bearing in mind when designing a piece you might one day sell.
Special orders and resale
On the secondary market, horseshoe-stamped special orders attract particular interest for their rarity and bespoke character. Collectors seek them out as distinctive, exclusive pieces, and a special order with an appealing, tasteful combination can command a premium. That said, highly idiosyncratic personalisations may appeal to a narrower audience, so the most resale-friendly special orders tend to balance personal flair with timeless elegance, as our market data guide advises.
Placing your first special order
If you reach the level of being offered a special order, approach it thoughtfully. Consider combinations you will love for years, balancing personal expression with the timeless qualities that ensure lasting appeal. Consult your sales associate about the available options, and take the opportunity to create something meaningful and beautiful. A first special order is a milestone to savour, the culmination of a genuine relationship with the house.
The prestige of the horseshoe
The horseshoe stamp has become a coveted symbol in the Hermes world, instantly signalling a bespoke special order and the elevated client relationship behind it. For collectors, it represents an achievement and a distinction, marking a bag as truly personal and exclusive. This prestige is a large part of why special orders are so treasured, embodying the deepest, most rewarding level of the Hermes experience.
Frequently asked questions
What is a Hermes Special Order?
It is a bespoke bag customised to a client’s specifications – such as leather, colour, hardware and stitching – marked by a horseshoe stamp and offered only to established, valued clients as the pinnacle of personalisation.
What is the horseshoe stamp?
A small horseshoe-shaped stamp near the maker’s mark that identifies a bag as a bespoke special order rather than standard production, signifying personalisation and elevated client status.
Who can place a special order?
Only established, valued clients with a strong relationship with Hermes, offered at the boutique’s discretion. Special orders are not available to newcomers or on general request.
How long does a special order take?
The bespoke creation process typically takes many months, as the bag is made to the client’s exact specifications by Hermes artisans, with the wait part of the special-order experience.